Archive for January, 2010

Honey-Preserved Clementines

Published January 24, 2010 Breakfast , Desserts , Recipes 5 Comments
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For some reason when I see clementines in the grocery store, that little song always creeps in my head, over and over again it plays in my mind until I finally shake it at the checkout line. “Oh my darling, oh my darling, oh my darling Clementine…..”.  Those were the only lines I really knew,  until recently something prompted me to look up the ballad. Well, wish I hadn’t. Turns out the song was written about a bereaved lover singing about his darling, the daughter of a miner during the California Gold Rush. Clementine drowns in the river because her lover doesn’t save her,  he can’t swim. He consoles himself by kissing her little sister.

How I missed her! How I missed her,
How I missed my Clementine,
But I kissed her little sister,
I forgot my Clementine

Very comforting….. never will look at that little song the same way.

I came across this recipe for preserving clementines in Fine Cooking in December. What an intriguing way to keep these  fruits around. Clementines are a variety of mandarin oranges. They are almost always seedless and very easy to peel. Traditionally it is thought that they originated as an accidental hybrid, found by Father Clement Rodier at a garden at his orphanage in Misserghin, Algeria. Others claim their birth to be in China. Nowadays they are usually grown in Spain or Morocco,  California also has a short season between mid-November through January. 

Clementines contain antioxidants (limogene) which are molecules capable of slowing or preventing oxidation of other molecules within our bodies. When we eat food, oxidation takes place which turns the food into useful energy. A by-product of oxidation is the formation of free radical molecules. When these are released, they start chemical chain reactions that damage cells. Some free radicals are necessary for life such as killing bacteria, while others are thought to cause damage to our bodies. Many cancers are thought to be  the result of reactions between free radicals and DNA ( the genetic instructions that direct the development and functioning of all living creatures). Aging can also be attributed to free radical damage.

Antioxidants stop some of the chain reactions, thus helping stop some of the cell destruction within our bodies and thus possibly helping stop some cancers and premature aging.

These clementines are preserved in a syrup made from honey, sugar and spices. The syrup cures the fruit by drawing out the water and stopping the growth of harmful bacteria. The entire fruit is preserved and over time everything becomes edible, including the rind. These are really delicious stirred into plain yogurt, on top of vanilla ice cream, added to a slow cooking beef stew or even combining into frosting for your favorite chocolate cake.

Honey-preserved Clementine

Honey-Preserved Clementines

1 c. honey

1 c. sugar

5 whole cloves

2 green cardamom pods

1 4 inch cinnamon stick

1 1/2 lb. firm clementines (5-7), cut horizontally into 3/4 inch thick slices

In a 4-quart saucepan, bring 1 c. water and the honey, sugar, clovers, cardamom, and cinnamon stick to a boil over high heat.

Gently slip the clementine slices into the liquid without stirring (if any of the slices are mostly rind, place them rind down). Return the pot to boil then reduce the heat to simmer and cover. Simmer for 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat, cover, and set aside overnight, at least 8 and up to 12 hours.

Spoon and gently pack the slices into a 1-quart canning jar. Bring the syrup in the saucepan back to a boil and keep boiling for 3 minutes.

Pour the syrup over the slices to cover, discard any excess syrup. Cool to room temperature. Seal and refrigerate for at least 1 week before using. The clementines will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Chocolate Bread

Published January 20, 2010 Desserts , Recipes Leave a Comment
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Chocolate Bread

 

There is something so satisfying about this bread. The aroma that fills the air while your mixing the raw ingredients together. The chocolate that fills the air as it bakes. The heavy, rich smell as the bread cools. The dense, dark, luxurious taste as you treat yourself to a slice. I don’t think I have ever made anything that stays with me for so long, I can even conjure up the taste experience as I’m  writing about it! 

This is a very simple recipe coming from the “Domestic Goddess”Nigella Lawson. The key is using parchment paper to line the pan, and letting the bread cool completely (even a full day) before trying to remove it. The center will sink because it is so dense and moist but no worries, leave it flipped over when you remove it from the pan, it will look great. 

Ingredients: 

1 c. soft unsalted butter 

1 2/3 c. dark brown sugar 

2 large eggs, beaten 

1 t. vanilla extract 

4 ou. high quality bittersweet chocolate, melted 

1 1/3 c. all-purpose flour 

1 t. baking soda 

1 c. plus 2 T. boiling water 

9×5 in. loaf pan 

Preheat oven to 375′F 

Grease and line your loaf pan with parchment paper. Cream butter and sugar together, then add eggs and vanilla, beating well. Fold in the melted, slightly cooled chocolate, blending well but not over mixing. You want the ingredients combined but not light and airy. Gently add the flour to which the baking soda has already been added, alternating spoon by spoon with the boiling water until you have a smooth liquid batter. Pour into lined loaf pan and bake for 30 minutes. Turn the oven down to 325′F and continue to cook for another 15 minutes. The cake will be rather damp inside so don’t try inserting a cake tester because it won’t come out clean. 

Place the loaf pan on a rack and leave to completely cool before turning it out. Don’t worry if it sinks, it will! Makes about 8-10 slices, I usually make two for leftovers the next day if it makes it.

Eggrolls- My Way

Published January 14, 2010 Appetizer , Dinner , Recipes 4 Comments
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Pork-filled Eggrolls

These are not your usual cabbage stuffed fillers that come with the Pu-pu platter at your corner Chinese food restaurant. I gave up on those many years ago. This was one of the first “complicated” recipes I tried once I moved away to college. I loved feeding my roommates, and they loved when I made eggrolls. The key is fresh wrappers, time to allow the filling to cool completely before stuffing, and karma. Forget the tea leaves, I swear I can tell the weather by how these turn out. If your stressed, every third wrapper will rip in your hand or tear during stuffing. The act of wrapping the filling up into a tight little package is meditative, mesmerizing. I change the filling constantly, sometimes chunks of shrimp, sometimes a sweet dessert with cinnamon apples and raisins.

Ingredients

2 T. sesame oil (may need more)

1 # ground pork

1 T. peanut butter

1 c. cabbage (I love the color of the rolls with the purple cabbage)

3 stalks celery, chopped coarsely

3 scallions, chopped coarsely

1/2 c. shitake mushrooms, coarsely chopped

1/2 c. bean sprouts

2 T. fish sauce*

2 T. soy sauce

1 T. garlic chili sauce*

1/4 in. piece of fresh ginger minced

1 T. rice vinegar*

2 packages eggroll wrappers* (unless you live in the city, check the exp. date)

1 egg white

peanut oil for frying

cornstarch for dusting

makes about 48 rolls

Make the filling:

Add 1 T. sesame oil to heavy fry pan or wok and heat. Add the ground pork and stir fry over medium high heat until lightly browned. Drain fat off and place in a bowl. Add the peanut butter and mix with the warm meat. Again, add sesame oil to pan and stir fry cabbage, celery and ginger until the cabbage is glossy and slightly limp, about 4 minutes. Add to the bowl of meat. Again add a small amount of sesame oil if needed to the pan and over medium high heat stir fry onion and mushrooms until the mushrooms release their moisture and are fragrant, about 2 minutes. Turn heat off and add bean sprouts and mix. Transfer to the meat mixture and combine completely. Add fish sauce, soy sauce, chili sauce, and rice vinegar and mix. Allow the filling to cool completely then refrigerate until ready to fill the eggrolls.

Filling for the eggrolls

Assembling the Eggrolls-

Remove the eggrolls from the refrigerator about 1/2 hour before using to allow them to come to room temperature. Place wrapper on clean work surface, keeping the stack your not using yet under a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.

Starting to fill the rolls

Add approximately 1 teaspoon of filling to the center of the wrapper. Gently fold the point nearest to you over the filling and press to seal.

First fold

Dab egg white on each remaining wrapper point. Fold the two middle points, one at a time over the center of the roll to make an envelope. Press firmly to seal and enclose the filling tightly within.

Making the envelope

Roll the eggroll tightly towards the last point and press firmly to seal. The key is to roll tightly enough to remove all the air within the pouch, but not so tightly to tear the wrapper. If you don’t do this,  many times they will unwrap during frying which becomes a real mess.

Taaa-Daaa

Place the finished roll on a lightly cornstarch dusted cookie sheet in a single layer and begin to make your next roll.

Let's do it again!

Heat oil in a heavy deep sided fry pan or wok over medium high heat. The oil is ready when a small piece of wrapper is dropped in and it dances and browns within a minute. The trick is not so hot they brown to quickly, not hot enough and they absorb the oil. Fry eggrolls in the oil, about 5-6 at a time until golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm, uncovered, in a 150′F oven. Serve with several dipping sauces such as spicy peanut sauce, sweet plum sauce, and hot wasabi.

Banh Mi- Pork Meatball

Published January 9, 2010 Dinner , Recipes 2 Comments
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Pork Meatball Banh Mi

On any given day I have at least six people to feed for dinner. My husband, my children, their friends, everyone is always hungry, always. They like big hearty meals, always with meat of one kind or another. I however  love seafood, and chicken especially if I know who raised it (this is really possible in Vermont). Once in a blue moon I might crave something meaty. Try and pass off something vegetarian with this crowd, they’ll eat it the first time but then afterwards then will question each meal with  ”is there meat in it”?

We raise almost all of our own meat. What we don’t grow comes from neighbors and friends. There really is something to be said about knowing where your meal comes from, and the taste of grocery store meat can’t compare. 

Bon Appetit did a feature on meatballs this month, and this recipe has been adapted slightly from their version. I would decrease the sugar slightly, they were just a little to sweet for my liking, and increase the srirachi sauce for more heat. The hot chili mayo also adds some heat, and then the addition of the sweet and sour grated carrots and daikon are a perfect finishing touch. This recipe is perfect for those nights when you have to rush off to a basketball game and you need to squeeze a meal in beforehand. Quick and easy, just fill a nice small baguette and fly. 

Hot Chili Mayo 

2/3 c mayonnaise 

2 green onions, finely chopped 

1 T. hot chili sauce (such as sriracha) *

Meatballs 

1 pound ground pork 

1/4 c. finely chopped fresh basil 

4 garlic cloves 

3 green onions, finely chopped 

1 T. fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc nam)* 

1 T. hot chili sauce (sriracha)* 

1 T. sugar 

2 t. cornstarch 

1 t. freshly ground pepper 

1 t. coarse kosher salt 

Sandwiches 

2 c. coarsely grated carrots 

2 c. coarsely grated daikon (Japanese white radish)* 

1/4 c. unseasoned rice vinegar* 

1/4 c. sugar 

1 t. coarse kosher salt 

1 T. Asian sesame oil* 

4 10in. individual baguettes or 4 10 in. long pieces of french bread baguette (cut from 2 baguettes) 

thinly sliced jalapeno chiles 

16 large fresh cilantro sprigs 

Hot Chili Mayo- stir all ingredients in small bowl. Season with salt. Cover and chill. 

Preheat oven 375′F 

Meatballs-  gently mix all ingredients in large bowl. Using moistened hands roll a scant tablespoon of meat mixture into 1-inch meatballs. Arrange on rimmed baking pan, and bake in oven for approximnately 30 minutes (they have you sauté them but I find this version just as tasty and much less messy).  Drain on paper towels and keep warm. 

Sandwiches- toss first 5 ingredients in medium bowl. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour, tossing occasionally. Cut each baguette horizontally in half. Pullout enough bread from each half to leave 1/2-inch-thick shell. Spread hot chili mayo over each bread shell. Arrange jalapeno , then cilantro in bottom halves. Fill each with meatballs. Drained pickled vegetables, place on top of meatballs. Press top half of baguette onto bottom to form sandwich. 

* these ingredients can be found at some supermarkets and Asian Markets. Locally the Hanover Coop carries all of these ingredients, as well as South End Market in Bradford (except daikon radish).

Yeast-Raised Glazed Doughnuts

Published January 6, 2010 Breakfast , Desserts , Recipes Leave a Comment
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These are definitely not diet food. Is there anything like a warm, homemade doughnut first thing in the morning to get your day off to a great start? Some are sprinkled with powdered sugar, others dipped in vanilla glaze, and then there are the ones drizzled in chocolate. Oooo La Laaaaa! This recipe comes from King Arthur’s All-Purpose Baking Cookbook. So lucky to live close enough to this wonderful place, their baking shop is filled with wonderful cooking equipment and baked goods, and they hold cooking classes all month long.

1/2 t. salt

1/4 t. nutmeg

1/4 c. sugar

2 1/4 t. instant yeast

3 c. unbleached all-purpose flour (King Arthur)

1 large egg

1 c. milk

2 T. butter, melted

1/2 t. vanilla extract

6 c. vegetable oil or shortening, for frying

Glaze

1/4 c. milk

2 c. confectioner’s sugar

1/4 t. vanilla

Whisk together dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, combine egg, milk, butter and vanilla and stir into the flour mixture, mix well to combine. Let dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead for 6 to 8 minutes by hand or mixer until you have a soft, smooth dough. Place the dough in buttered bowl, turn it over to grease the top and let rise, covered in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until doubled in bulk. After the rise I refrigerate the dough until the following morning or if your a early morning person you could get up and do all of this in one day.

Deflate the dough and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Gently roll the dough out to 1/4 inch thickness and cut with a round cutter, or use a pizza wheel and cut into strips to make crullers. Place on lightly greased tray. Cover loosely with greased plastic wrap, and let rise again for about 1 hour, until doubled in size.

Place oil or shortening in a heavy pan or deep skillet and heat to 350′F. Place the doughnuts in the oil, two or three at a time, and fry until golden brown. Turn over and repeat on second side. This should be no more than one minute per side. Overcooking will make the doughnuts tough. Drain on paper towels.

To make the glaze stir the milk into the confectioner’s sugar until smooth. Add vanilla.

When the doughnuts are cool enough to handle but still nice a warm, dip the tops in the glaze or sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar, or better yet drizzle with good quality chocolate!

Waiting On A Train-Elixir

Published January 4, 2010 Recipes Leave a Comment

When you live in rural Vermont, going out to dinner is usually not a spur of the moment endeavor. The drive is typically long, restaurant hours can be very unpredictable, and the quality is not always consistent. Last night my hubby treated me to dinner at one of my newest favorites. Our oldest was coming in from NYC on the train to White River Junction, and in the midst of a snow storm we decided to head out early and grab a bite. White River Junction is a historic little town where the Connecticut and White Rivers meet. At one time 50 or more trains passed through their station in a day, now only Amtrak’s Vermonter stops twice a day. The community has been working hard to revitalize the area, and has attracted an artist colony that has brought color and life back to the vacant buildings.

White River Junction is home to Cartoon Studies a school for budding cartoonists,  Northern Stage one of the top professional theater companies in Vermont, and Tip Top Media and Arts Building, housing 33 artist studios, workshops and small businesses. Many more businesses and related venues are moving to town.

While the artists are flooding the town, it seems like the restaurant scene was slipping out the back door. Tip Top Cafe in the Tip Top Building has survived the slipping economy, and consistently serves a good meal, but two others recently have left the White River scene leaving the Northern Stage patrons fewer dining options.

In steps Chef Jean Pierre Debeuf, Elixir’s secret weapon. A native of Nice, France, Debeuf is not only charming but very talented. This was my third trip since they opened the doors in the old Freight House in White River Junction. I have to tell you I was a bit nervous. Usually I find a restaurant that really makes me stop and catch my breath.  Then it happens, just like when you think your falling in love, the excitement wears off and your left with that sinking disappointed feeling.

Well Elixir has kept that feeling for alive for me. Each time I sample the cuisine I am left speechless. The freshness of ingredients, unique combinations, and presentation is superb. The staff is charming, the atmosphere is romantic and cosy. I am embarrassed to say I forgot my camera and notebook so I did not document the trip very well. I will tell you the stuffed dates wrapped in bacon accompanied by a small arugula salad with balsamic dressing was absolutely delicious. My hubby had the lobster risotto and smiled after each mouthful. I went totally against my usual path and ordered the veal chop. It was very good but I wished I had ordered the artichoke and fontine ravioli in a light broth, that is more my speed. We shared an incredible chocolate bread pudding dribbled with vanilla sauce, that finished the meal off perfectly.

I wish these talented people the best for the new year.

Happy New Year- Cream Puffs

Published January 2, 2010 Desserts , Recipes 2 Comments
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Glorious Eggs

What a great way to start out your new year (unless of course you resolved to lose weight). Cream Puffs, another recipe where eggs play the starring role! These are a major weakness for me. They are so sophisticated looking no matter if you pipe them through a pastry bag or plop them on a cookie sheet straight from a spoon. You can fill them with savory spreads for an appetizer, or a scoop of vanilla ice cream topped with homemade hot fudge sauce.

My love affair with this pastry began belly up to the ice cream counter at Sanders in Detroit. The most famous of their parlours resided in the J.L. Hudson department store, in downtown Detroit. Sanders supplied the city with confections beginning in  1875. The ice cream shops are long gone but my mom still finds and sends jars of the hot fudge topping (it’s not as good as I remember). You can use a mixer to combine the puff ingredients, but I think the ritual of hand mixing this pastry is rewarding and the consistency of the puff is lighter. I’ll warn you though, it is not an easy mix! This recipe comes out of a local Vermont restaurant, River Run in Plainfield.

For the pastry:

1 cup water

8 T. (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 c. all-purpose flour

generous pinch of salt

4 eggs, at room temperature

For the chocolate filling

8 ou. semisweet chocolate

6 ou. cream cheese (about 3/4 c.) at room temperature

1/2 c. confectioner’s sugar

3/4 c. heavy cream

Preheat oven to 400′F

First you want to make the pastry. In a heavy saucepan, combine the water and butter and bring to a boil over low heat. Slowly add flour and salt, stirring constantly until the mixture begins to pull away from the side of the pan. Remove the pan from the heat and add eggs, one at a time, beating quickly and continuously. This is a crucial stage, if you don’t add the eggs one at a time and keep mixing them constantly they will begin to cook on their own and you will have scrambled eggs instead of cream puffs.

Tablespoons of puff batter ready for the oven

At this point you could put the slightly cooled pastry into a pastry bag and pipe fancy bits onto an ungreased baking sheets. For lack of time I will take a tablespoon and scoop free form mounds onto the sheets, I think they look just as delicious. The puffs should be barely touching. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until lightly browned. Cool completely on cooling racks.

Once the puffs have completely cooled, slice them open and carefully scoop out the moist pastry, leaving an empty shell for stuffing. If you don’t remove this moist layer the puffs will become soggy (my family gobbles the filling up as fast as the puffs!)

Make the filling. Melt 6 ou. of chopped chocolate in a double boiler over barely simmering water. Allow to cool a bit, registering 100 degrees on an instant read thermometer. In a large mixing bowl, beat the cream cheese, and sugar together until very creamy and light. Beat in the cooled, melted chocolate.

In another bowl, beat the whipping cream until stiff peaks form. Carefully fold the whip cream into the chocolate mix. This is another crucial stage, if you don’t gently fold the whip cream into the other mixture the cream will deflate and the filling will not have a great consistency.

Chocolate filled Cream Puffs

Fill the puffs with the filling and place on a platter. Melt the remaining chocolate in the double boiler, stirring until smooth and drizzle over the filled puffs. Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

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